Bernie Worley
West Virginia University College of Law, 2L
Saturday, August 2, 2008

Pousada Amazonia

It had been a wonderful, long, overwhelming, amazing, hot, exciting, dirty, couple of days on the riverboat Roque without cell phones and computers, traffic, people, cars, real showers, real buildings, beds, and most of all stress. We were on the tail end of a 5 hour tour (think Giligan’s Island theme song) from the Rio Negro to a tributary of the Rio Amazon. The whole group enjoyed the warm Amazonian wind as it is much cooler and the bugs are nowhere to be found.

Bernie Worley relaxes in his riverboat hammock

I woke up in my hammock because the boat was rocking (very unusual as the Rio Negro, Amazon, and Solimones had been as smooth as glass thus far). I looked up and could see nothing but water and land in the distance. The river was so wide that there were ocean-ish waves!

After entering a tributary of the Amazon, the landscape changed. We began to see areas where the jungle had been cleared for cattle grazing and agriculture. There were also many more birdsongs in the air (and of course more bugs!). It was clear that we had entered into the Amazon area, and were therefore near the Pousada Amazonia.

We knew that the Pousada was a jungle lodge, but no-one (aside from Sensei cummings) knew what to expect. The Roque slowed to a stop in front of a bridge. This was the first bridge we had seen since embarking on our voyage. Then Anandi our guide told me that this bridge is the only road leading out of Manaus to a medium sized town in the heart of Amazonas. The bridge looked strikingly like the interstate bridges that are so common in West Virginia, with similar car and truck traffic. These were the first mechanical noises other than generators and boats any of us had heard for days and I have to admit that the sound was fairly offensive at first!!

Anandi told us we had stopped because the bridge was too low for the Roque to pass under, but that the Pousada was not far on the other side. Sensei cummings and Agi motored away in the big canoe, presumably to scope out our accommodations. They returned in a huge new canoe (that wasn’t even taking on water!) which fit the whole group plus our overnight bags. We eagerly boarded and were whisked away to the Pousada.

Our ragtag crew pauses for a picture in front of the Pousada Amazonia (jungle lodge)

The Pousadas Amazonia is the most beautiful, peaceful, and refreshing resort in the entire world (at least to the 22 weary WVU College of Law crew.) We stepped onto dry land and walked up the stairs, eager to get our room assignments (and of course hot showers!) When we entered the main building, a wonderful circular glass building with a huge tree growing through the middle, we were immediately handed a frozen drink. I decided at that moment that this was definitely my kind of place.

After we got our room keys, Sensei cummings informed me that we were going back to the boat for dinner and cayman hunting. I have to admit that this was definitely not what I was wanting to hear after days on the boat! But, after I stopped pouting I took a LONG shower and met everyone at the last minute on the dock. After dinner, Anandi took us cayman hunting and WOW, am I glad I went. Lauren had her video camera, and I did a little intro ala crocodile hunter (RIP Steve Irwin.) It was totally dark, and Anandi was stading on the front of the canoe with a huge lamp. He explained to us that you can spot a cayman by the flash of their eyes. Within two minutes he yelled at the driver in some language other than Portuguese or English, and we slowed and floated into a heavily vegetated area. I was thinking to myself, “yeah right,” but Anandi leaned over the side of the boat and snatched up a 1 meter baby green cayman – and I was sitting directly behind all this madness! It was insane! After everyone had a chance to inspect the critter, and a few of us, including Professor Taylor held the juvenile cayman, Anandi released it into the wild. I was delegated to holding the light for him, and let me tell you there were bugs the size of hummingbirds flying around my head!

Professor John Taylor observes up close a juvenile cayman that had been caught (by hand) by our tour guide Anandi

After returning to the Pousada, everyone changed and we decided to have a drink and chill by the pool in the beautiful jungle scenery. This dry land excursion was just what the doctor ordered and then we discovered “Groupo Thompson.” If you are wondering, Groupo Thompson is a Manaus based company who rented out the “disco” area for a company party (think drunk middle-aged Brazilians having a techno dance party with fruit platters in the middle). Eventually our crew sent several scouts to see whether we could join in the festivities. After the scouts gave the ok, we all went to check the party out. Much dancing ensued, and Professor Taylor showed us his best moves. After the DJ turned the lights on, we all went and fell into our WONDERFUL FLAT beds!

The next morning we packed and went back to the boat, we were in for a “7 hour tour” plus some possible swimming. We cruised along, enjoying the refreshing breeze and preparing for our imminent departure to Manaus. Near lunchtime we pulled into a small deserted island. There was a sand beach, jungle, and a few dilapidated buildings.

The beach was a welcome sight, but when we campaigned for a swim break, we had a hidden agenda. Everyone wanted to jump off the riverboat. Luckily this was possible because of the steep drop-off behind the boat (and approval from the tour guides). Our resident test pilot/ daredevil, Matthew “wild-man” Stonestreet jumped off the back of the boat (3 stories or so) first. After we ascertained that he was still alive, the jumping ensued (nearly all of the group swam in the Amazon.) Sensei cummings capped off our swimming excursion with a nicely executed swan dive off the top of the riverboat. The Roque’s crew prepared a beach bar-b-que for us and wow, it was amazing. During this amazing lunch, I thought to myself that even the greatest novelist couldn’t create a more perfect scene.

Sensei cummings dives off of the riverboat roof into the Amazon River

Being on the Amazon was a once in a lifetime experience. While there were many challenges, everyone in our group rose to meet them. Not only did the group become much closer, but also I believe that each individual was afforded an opportunity for self growth.

The rainforest ecosystem is truly amazing in its beauty and bounty. Our seminars on the boat’s top deck focused on the preservation of this resource. We all now have first hand knowledge about why we need to protect this area. From undiscovered species; to the rights of indigenous people to live as they choose; to the countless trees and plants that cure headaches, paralyze and kill a whole lake of fish, help wounds, prevent bug bites, and undoubtedly countless others. It seems likely to me that with the help of the indigenous peoples and a healthy rainforest ecosystem that there is a cure for many of the terrible problems that humankind faces each day.