Jasmine Morton
West Virginia University College of Law, 2L
Sunday, August 3, 2008

Experiencing Vitoria and Vila Velha

There was a hint of sadness in the air as we packed our things and prepared to depart from the Roque. Many of us were beginning to realize that what we had encountered over the past week would be something we would never forget and something we may never experience again. The trip to the airport from our Amazon Riverboat was relatively quiet, most slept, but some reflected on the adventures of the past week. We arrived at the airport around 10:30 pm (two hours before our flight was to depart) and checked in with TAM airlines. Soon after check-in we got a taste of what intrastate Brazilian travel could be like.

A traditional Capoeira group prepares to perform

We were all a “little” cranky and sick of one another when we finally boarded our plane at 3:06 am on Sunday, August 3. From the Manaus airport we headed for Sao Paulo. Once there, we had to catch our connecting flight at 8:45 am. The total time of the trip was a little over 5 hours, so all of us including our fearless leaders prayed that we would make the flight to Vitoria despite our three hour delay in Manaus. We ended up making the flight and it appeared that all students and luggage did too, even though we only had 25 minutes to get from one plane to the other.

We arrived in Vitoria, Brazil at 10:30 am and I think I can speak for the group when I say we were a sight for sore eyes. There was an aura of apprehension as we headed through the gates to meet our host families. However, as soon as we passed through the gates any fears we may have had disappeared. Our hosts welcomed us with smiling faces and open arms. I soon realized that everything was going to be alright. Although we were all very tired from our trip the night before, the energy of our hosts fueled us for the busy day ahead.

When I arrived at my hosts home, I was shocked that I could look off the balcony and see the ocean. Kalif Fatal, my host, had a great apartment and made me feel welcome from the minute I set foot in his place. I had about one hour to get settled in and shower before I had to be at the next event. After a hot shower, we all headed to a barbecue at the Vila Velha Prosecutor’s Club to mingle with students from UVV and to get to know our hosts a little better.

Everything about the barbecue was amazing including the food, people, and activities. The students from UVV had prepared a traditional Brazilian barbecue with beef, sausage, rice, fried cheese, a variety of fruit, and much, much more. We all filled our bellies and mingled a little more before being treated to a little more Brazilian culture. Four men performed a Brazilian dance called Capoeira, which is very different from the kind of dancing we see in the States. The best way I can describe it is like dance fighting in a karate type form. After observing it was our turn to try. Of course we were all hesitant, but finally, the fearless Matthew Stonestreet, stepped up to the plate and took one for the team. Eventually others tried, but it was Professor John Taylor that stole the show with his amazing dance/fighting skills and startling graceful ability to stand on his head. As the afternoon wound down, the crowd began to dwindle and we again departed with our hosts.

Relaxing poolside with new Brazilian friends

We were all very tired, but our hosts were not and they had an eventful evening planned for us. Most grabbed dinner from various places before again meeting up with the group at a local Crab House to have a few drinks and socialize. I am fairly sure that our hosts were just as nervous to meet us as we were to meet them, but from the outside looking in you would have never known. As I sat there with our large group of Brazilian friends, I realized what Brazil was all about. These were some of the nicest, most generous people that I had ever met and I could not wait to spend the week getting to know these wonderful people. I cannot think of a better way to experience Brazilian culture than with these fantastic individuals.

Bernie Worley
West Virginia University College of Law, 2L
Saturday, August 2, 2008

Pousada Amazonia

It had been a wonderful, long, overwhelming, amazing, hot, exciting, dirty, couple of days on the riverboat Roque without cell phones and computers, traffic, people, cars, real showers, real buildings, beds, and most of all stress. We were on the tail end of a 5 hour tour (think Giligan’s Island theme song) from the Rio Negro to a tributary of the Rio Amazon. The whole group enjoyed the warm Amazonian wind as it is much cooler and the bugs are nowhere to be found.

Bernie Worley relaxes in his riverboat hammock

I woke up in my hammock because the boat was rocking (very unusual as the Rio Negro, Amazon, and Solimones had been as smooth as glass thus far). I looked up and could see nothing but water and land in the distance. The river was so wide that there were ocean-ish waves!

After entering a tributary of the Amazon, the landscape changed. We began to see areas where the jungle had been cleared for cattle grazing and agriculture. There were also many more birdsongs in the air (and of course more bugs!). It was clear that we had entered into the Amazon area, and were therefore near the Pousada Amazonia.

We knew that the Pousada was a jungle lodge, but no-one (aside from Sensei cummings) knew what to expect. The Roque slowed to a stop in front of a bridge. This was the first bridge we had seen since embarking on our voyage. Then Anandi our guide told me that this bridge is the only road leading out of Manaus to a medium sized town in the heart of Amazonas. The bridge looked strikingly like the interstate bridges that are so common in West Virginia, with similar car and truck traffic. These were the first mechanical noises other than generators and boats any of us had heard for days and I have to admit that the sound was fairly offensive at first!!

Anandi told us we had stopped because the bridge was too low for the Roque to pass under, but that the Pousada was not far on the other side. Sensei cummings and Agi motored away in the big canoe, presumably to scope out our accommodations. They returned in a huge new canoe (that wasn’t even taking on water!) which fit the whole group plus our overnight bags. We eagerly boarded and were whisked away to the Pousada.

Our ragtag crew pauses for a picture in front of the Pousada Amazonia (jungle lodge)

The Pousadas Amazonia is the most beautiful, peaceful, and refreshing resort in the entire world (at least to the 22 weary WVU College of Law crew.) We stepped onto dry land and walked up the stairs, eager to get our room assignments (and of course hot showers!) When we entered the main building, a wonderful circular glass building with a huge tree growing through the middle, we were immediately handed a frozen drink. I decided at that moment that this was definitely my kind of place.

After we got our room keys, Sensei cummings informed me that we were going back to the boat for dinner and cayman hunting. I have to admit that this was definitely not what I was wanting to hear after days on the boat! But, after I stopped pouting I took a LONG shower and met everyone at the last minute on the dock. After dinner, Anandi took us cayman hunting and WOW, am I glad I went. Lauren had her video camera, and I did a little intro ala crocodile hunter (RIP Steve Irwin.) It was totally dark, and Anandi was stading on the front of the canoe with a huge lamp. He explained to us that you can spot a cayman by the flash of their eyes. Within two minutes he yelled at the driver in some language other than Portuguese or English, and we slowed and floated into a heavily vegetated area. I was thinking to myself, “yeah right,” but Anandi leaned over the side of the boat and snatched up a 1 meter baby green cayman – and I was sitting directly behind all this madness! It was insane! After everyone had a chance to inspect the critter, and a few of us, including Professor Taylor held the juvenile cayman, Anandi released it into the wild. I was delegated to holding the light for him, and let me tell you there were bugs the size of hummingbirds flying around my head!

Professor John Taylor observes up close a juvenile cayman that had been caught (by hand) by our tour guide Anandi

After returning to the Pousada, everyone changed and we decided to have a drink and chill by the pool in the beautiful jungle scenery. This dry land excursion was just what the doctor ordered and then we discovered “Groupo Thompson.” If you are wondering, Groupo Thompson is a Manaus based company who rented out the “disco” area for a company party (think drunk middle-aged Brazilians having a techno dance party with fruit platters in the middle). Eventually our crew sent several scouts to see whether we could join in the festivities. After the scouts gave the ok, we all went to check the party out. Much dancing ensued, and Professor Taylor showed us his best moves. After the DJ turned the lights on, we all went and fell into our WONDERFUL FLAT beds!

The next morning we packed and went back to the boat, we were in for a “7 hour tour” plus some possible swimming. We cruised along, enjoying the refreshing breeze and preparing for our imminent departure to Manaus. Near lunchtime we pulled into a small deserted island. There was a sand beach, jungle, and a few dilapidated buildings.

The beach was a welcome sight, but when we campaigned for a swim break, we had a hidden agenda. Everyone wanted to jump off the riverboat. Luckily this was possible because of the steep drop-off behind the boat (and approval from the tour guides). Our resident test pilot/ daredevil, Matthew “wild-man” Stonestreet jumped off the back of the boat (3 stories or so) first. After we ascertained that he was still alive, the jumping ensued (nearly all of the group swam in the Amazon.) Sensei cummings capped off our swimming excursion with a nicely executed swan dive off the top of the riverboat. The Roque’s crew prepared a beach bar-b-que for us and wow, it was amazing. During this amazing lunch, I thought to myself that even the greatest novelist couldn’t create a more perfect scene.

Sensei cummings dives off of the riverboat roof into the Amazon River

Being on the Amazon was a once in a lifetime experience. While there were many challenges, everyone in our group rose to meet them. Not only did the group become much closer, but also I believe that each individual was afforded an opportunity for self growth.

The rainforest ecosystem is truly amazing in its beauty and bounty. Our seminars on the boat’s top deck focused on the preservation of this resource. We all now have first hand knowledge about why we need to protect this area. From undiscovered species; to the rights of indigenous people to live as they choose; to the countless trees and plants that cure headaches, paralyze and kill a whole lake of fish, help wounds, prevent bug bites, and undoubtedly countless others. It seems likely to me that with the help of the indigenous peoples and a healthy rainforest ecosystem that there is a cure for many of the terrible problems that humankind faces each day.

Jennifer Feathers
West Virginia University College of Law, 3L
Friday, August 1, 2008

Raping and Pillaging Begets Raping and Pillaging

After another night of being swayed to sleep in our hammocks our haggard crew, smelling less than lovely after several days roughing it on the Rio Negro, was awakened once again by a breakfast call from the deck below. Soon afterwards we set up river to visit the small indigenous village of Nova Esperanza. For days we have been discussing the indigenous peoples of the Amazonia region of Brazil and the challenges they face as their jungle home continues to be pillaged by deforesters, ranchers, and farmers. It wasn’t until today though that the true damage that will be done to this region should this environmental rape continue truly resonated with me.

Jasmine Morton and Caroline Clark with several of the children from the village located deep within the Amazon

As we approached the village, our boat ran ashore and we saw a group of children eagerly awaiting our arrival. They looked curiously at us, probably as curiously we were looking at them in their Barbie and Hello Kitty clothes. The children were beautiful, bronzed by the equatorial sun, beautiful complexions, wide grins, big dark innocent eyes, and sun streaked hair. We carefully made our way down the plank to the shore where the village’s leader Mutuca met us adorned in an odd combination of neon swimming trunks and an elaborate headdress.

Our amazing guide, Anandi (“AN-an-jee”), an Amazonian version of Bear Grills from “Man Versus Wild” was well received by Mutuca as Anandi had established a relationship with the Baré, delivering school supplies and advising them as to how to deal with the ever encroaching problems of this region. We began our tour with the village’s school, where children and adults can receive no higher than a primary education. Inside looked like any American kindergarten, colored pictures on the wall, alphabet chart, and tiny little desks. However, here the children draw pictures of Toucans and other local wildlife. We continued through the village and watched a demonstration of how the village women prepare the Mantioch root, a staple in the indigenous diet similar to a potato. The efforts these women put forward to turn this root, poisonous in its natural form, into sustenance amazes me. Even more amazing is the effort the villagers take to recycle and replant the root, giving back to the Amazon what they take.

The most striking part of this excursion however was the inherent difference between the children in this remote village compared to the children we met in the more tourist laden region of Manaus during the beginning of our journey down the Rio Negro. The first group of children we met occupied a small dock with their family where they kept wild animals such as sloth, anaconda, and cayman for the tourists to pose with. These children received us much differently than the Baré children. The dock children immediately rushed over to us with their menagerie and began trying to shove the animals into our arms then quickly repossessing them while promptly holding out their hands for Reias. These children had been integrated, trained to grind for money. They even rebuffed our efforts to give them keepsakes such as shiny American coins and chewing gum due to their lack of monetary value.

The Baré children were nothing like this. The Baré children were shy, keeping a safe distance until they felt more comfortable around us. They scurried around after realizing we were not intimidating, gathering us berries to eat. They watched me in fascination as I blew bubbles with my chewing gum, they showed me how to shoot their marbles in the dirt where they played underneath a shade tree. They wanted to learn from us it seemed as much as we wanted to learn from them. Not once did they demand money and when one of my trip-mates gave one of the village boys a hat upon our departure he took it graciously, smiling from ear to ear and then turned to quickly show his friends his new treasure.

A little boy from the native village of ‘Nova Esperanza’ shows off the new hat given to him by one of our trip mates

This comparison is critical because it is illustrative of the effect that the invasion of the Amazon by industry, technology, and greed has on its people. During lecture after the village visit, Anandi told us of the after affects this invasion has on people such as the Baré. Organizations who are supposed to be protecting the Amazon are essentially destroying it by forcing the people who hold it sacred out. Fishermen, fishing the same waters they have fished for years to feed their families are now being issued fines that they cannot pay and even more insultingly having their canoes confiscated forcing the men to swim back to their villages in the cayman and piranha infested Rio Negro. Village men, who enter the forest to take one log, one log that they meticulously turn into 12 pieces of lumber and float down the Rio Negro into Manaus to receive a meager penance of 40 Reias (approximately 20 American Dollars) that they used to buy necessities for their families such as salt, are now being punished. How are the indigenous supposed to survive when their very way of life is now made criminal? It seems a great injustice to punish people who are not the problem. As aforementioned, the indigenous respect the Amazon, taking only what they need to sustain life and replacing whatever they can.

Anandi told us what the indigenous have been forced to do in order to compensate for these unjust restrictions. Starve, sneak, or run. Some go hungry, die out, some sneak around and hope not to get caught breaking IBAMA regulations, others simply leave. Many flee to Manaus, live in cramped quarters with the rest of their ousted family and scrape by. Due to the lack of secondary education available to these people and the absence of a skilled trade, the people are forced into appalling means of making money. Either become the dock people exploiting the beautiful Amazonian creatures and essentially pimping out their children or turn to selling drugs or even worse, prostitution. As Anandi put the thought of those beautiful Baré daughters being violated into my head my stomach turned, and it was not because I had enjoyed a refreshing Caipirina with ice in it at the Posada Amazonia Jungle Lodge that night against the travel clinic’s advice. I felt ill and motivated at the same time.

It is not until someone is immersed in another culture that they begin to understand the beauty of it. You don’t have a full grasp of what it means to save the rainforest until you see exactly what is at stake. You don’t understand the impact your environmental footprint has on this world until you see exactly where your Brazilian cherry wood floors come from. I hope that my trip-mates came away from this experience with the same impression and desire to make a progressive effort to change.

Natural Abundance of the Amazon

Allison Minton
West Virginia University College of Law, 3L
Thursday, July 31, 2008

Dusk on the Rio Negro. One of our guides, Aguinaldo (“Auggie”), paddles our small wooden canoe through one of many river channels snaking through the flooded forest. When we are quiet, we can hear exotic bird calls and can see blue morpho butterflies. The dark water is so still that it perfectly mirrors the trees above and we cannot tell where the water ends and where the sky begins.

Our guide Auginaldo (Auggie), at home in the rainforest, teaches of the medicinal value of many of the trees and plants in the Amazon

At one point, one of the two canoes ferrying us through the flooded forest becomes tangled in jungle vines hanging from the canopy of trees, high above our heads. Our other guide, Anandi (“AN-an-jee”) calmly steps out of the canoe, into the black waters and onto a submerged log. He untangles the canoe. I am amazed at how easily, how comfortably, he moves in this environment.

Throughout this trip, I have been repeatedly reminded of how integrated our guides are with their environment. They are more comfortable in the Amazon then we are in our own backyards. Not only do our guides know all the twists and turns of the labyrinthine back channels of the flooded forest, they also know what fruits provide life-saving water, where to look for animals, and what jungle plants cure malaria, help with diabetes, and terminate unwanted pregnancies. And one time, on a jungle trek, Anandi said he could smell a viper. All we could smell was the buckets of deet we slathered on ourselves to protect us from the jungle bugs.

Striking out in a covered canoe to explore the flooded forest

I have realized that we look at the natural world so differently from our gracious hosts. While our guides thrive in the natural abundance of the Amazon, we seek protection from the heat, the bugs, and the sun. Yet somehow, this difference comforts me: despite globalization, despite the awesome power of the world economy to distribute the same sneakers and t-shirts to ports all around the globe, the world is still a remarkably varied and vast place.

We are definitely, wonderfully, out of place in this world.

Synchronized Rioting of the Jungle

Matthew Stonestreet
West Virginia University College of Law, 2L
Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Calling the group’s experience in the Amazon overwhelming would be a drastic understatement. The excitement and suspense involved in seeing anacondas, boa constrictors, sloth, cayman, piranha, tarantulas, exotic birds, and other rain forest creatures provides an unforgettable adrenaline rush. Without question, the lush terrain has inspired adventure seeking and an unrelenting exuberance among the group. This exuberance has been expressed in various ways including humor, competitiveness, and intellectual dialogue.

As part of the agenda today, the groups embarked on four hour treks through the Amazon rainforest that were infinitely enthralling. One of the more thrilling adventures on the trek began when Bernie “Hawk Eye” Worley spotted a Rainbow Boa Constrictor just off our tree and vine covered path. After the group recoiled, our guide Agi quickly hacked down a limb with his machete and made a tool to hold the head of the snake firmly on the ground. Attempting to escape, the nine foot snake fought violently shifting its tail and body through the leaf litter. Agi then asked if anyone wanted to snatch the slithering boa up off the jungle floor. I couldn’t resist. Barely thinking, as I often do, I quickly lifted the boa near its head and stood in the middle of the Amazon awestruck. Little did I know that within the first three days of the Brazil excursion I would hold wild snakes in the jungle, climb gorgeous exotic trees, jump off a riverboat into the Amazon River, fish for piranha, see and smell unknown flora and fauna, and hear the soft synchronized rioting of the jungle late at night.

Under the watchful eye of our tour guide Agi, Matthew Stonestreet seizes (and then releases) a boa constrictor that crossed the path during one of the many jungle treks

Experiencing all of this inevitably inspires a passion to understand the mass deforestation, vast reduction in native tribes, and the plethora of critical environmental issues currently facing the Amazon rainforest. During the lectures, the group explores the tensions that exist between the indigenous tribes, Brazilian government, large corporations, commercial farmers, and illegal loggers. In particular, the lectures focus on the concept of environmental justice. Environmental justice is based on the idea that all people should be protected against environmental hazards and the impending detrimental effects. This concept recognizes the pivotal connection between human rights and environmental protection. The readings, lectures, and discussions all take place within the setting of a star filled sky and surrounding jungle. In the end, the intellectual dialogue is complimented perfectly with the adventure filled days.

One of the most shocking experiences of the jungle was witnessing the carnage of a certain law professor’s fishing style – hilarity ensued. Rusty hooks raked through the water ripping the gills and eyes of unsuspecting innocent piranha. The culprit grinned and said “That was fishing straight out of Compton!”

Not surprisingly, a healthy competition has grown between two factions in the group (the good guys and the bad guys). Virginia Shumate, a bad guy, claims to have caught the most fish despite the fact that the total weight of her catch is less than your grandmother’s goldfish bowl. If any tiny magical fairies from Fern Gully appear, Virginia will be well equipped to provide a small snack for them. Of course, the fairies will have to escape the frantic hooks of professor bloodlust first. Keep in mind, I caught zero fish and harbor absolutely no resentment because of my grim failure.

In reality, the group has bonded amazingly well. Tossing over twenty people into hammocks on top of a riverboat in the rainforest forges a special sort of unity. Most members of the group did not realize how amazing and unique this experience would be. There is little doubt that the suspense, intrigue, curiosity, and fascination of the Amazon has captivated the West Virginia University College of Law study abroad crew.

Our Amazonian riverboat home for six days, the “Roque”

Stephen Altizer
West Virginia University College of Law, 2L
Monday, July 28, 2008

Caymans, Piranhas, Anacondas on the First Day

A view of the Amazon River and the Rio Negro from the airplane as it descends into Manaus

We’re Here! Though there was some doubt we would make it when during the flight from Miami to Panama City we hit turbulence that would make even the most fearless flier shriek. There were rumors that certain well-traveled professors were white-knuckled and just hoping to land safely.

All near-death experiences aside, we arrived in Manaus, in the heart of the Amazon, Monday evening. During the bus ride to the hotel, I noticed that from block to block, all buildings, walls, and stands were brightly colored. The entire city is decorated in festive colors. Colors and graffiti that I would associate with slums, Brazilians proudly display everywhere as part of their culture. It is a culture of vibrant people, of people that appreciate beautiful colors as decorations where we find those same colors offensive. Our hotel was no different. My room was a bright neon lime color that served as both decoration and a nightlight. I think these colors are just a sign that we are going to have a lively time.

We were lucky enough to experience some of the best Brazilian food the night we arrived. At Bufalo, a Brazilian Steakhouse, which are known as Churrascarias, we were inundated with fine cuts of beef, lamb, and pork. These steakhouses are all you can eat. Dinner, for a very respectable price, includes delectable appetizers of grilled cheese, bread, plantains in a sugary glaze, a salad and vegetable bar, and the most-tender portions of meat. The great part is that the servers carry two foot long skewers of this meat to your table and carve you off pieces to enjoy. The food was so abundant that I was not able to start eating my filet mignon before I was being offered a delicious rack of lamb. The servers seemed to enjoy serving us more than we enjoyed eating. We eventually succumbed to the parade of meats and made our way back to the hotel for some much needed rest.

Tuesday marked the beginning of our journey on the riverboat churning up and down the Rio Negro, one of the large tributaries to the Amazon River. The walk from the hotel to the pier, while a sight as twenty-one people rolled their luggage through the narrow streets, opened our eyes to the world of street vendors selling everything from universal remotes to local crafts. The walk quickly taught us that Brazilians cars do not yield to pedestrians. The pier sits next to the Manaus market. The market is alive with fishermen and fruit and vegetable growers working to make a living. Fresh fish, beef, pork, coconuts, bananas still attached to the tree branch, can all be found at this market, brought in that very morning. Our first stop along the riverboat tour was the mouth of the Rio Negro where it meets the Amazon. The black waters of the Rio Negro interlock with the clear waters of the Amazon and looks like fingers of each river are just poking into the other so you can always tell where one river ends and the other begins. As we headed back up the Rio Negro, we encountered two pink dolphins swimming along side the boat. The Rio Negro is home to some 800 species of fish, gray and pink dolphins being just two. We docked at the entrance of a lake area adjoining the Rio Negro and trekked our way into the jungle along a small wooden bridge. Our guides pointed to the discolorations of the trees going about five feet high and explained that the water had receded to that point as is normal during the season. At the end of the bridge was a tepid lake covered in lily pads, each pad about three feet wide and the largest in the world. Next to one of those lily pads was a cayman, kin to the alligator, and probably the most dangerous animal in terms of attacks on humans in the Amazon. Its razor sharp teeth seemed to give it a sly grin as if it knew it was a feared predator.

The next excursion pitted one group against the other as we fished for piranha from small canoes. The trip to our fishing spot gave us a chance to see a variety of indigenous birds. It was a fierce competition between the boats and each fisherman against the flesh eating fish. Most everyone caught a piranha, and everyone got a chance to see how vicious the bites from the fish can be as our guide held a leaf to its mouth and we watched it pull out chunks. Someone commented that it was a like a live hole-punch. After the fishing expedition we meandered through the jungle waters to another local dock, just missing a hard but short rainforest rain. Once on the dock, the caretakers introduced us to three-toed sloths, caymans (with their mouths closed with twine), pirachue (the largest sweetwater fish in the world), and an eight-foot anaconda by bringing the right up to us and letting us hold the animals. The group took turns taking pictures with the world’s largest constrictor wrapped around his or her neck.

Stephen Altizer with the anaconda

As dark began to fall around 6:00pm, we engaged in our first lecture. The theme of our discussion centered around the deforestation of the Amazon and what as lawyers can we possibly do to try and strike a balance between local and global interests in this jungle. Deforestation is very real. Illegal timber operations take over land from inattentive land owners at an alarming rate. Even those land owners who care for their land face death if they try to stop these operations. Land is also clear cut to legally raise cattle, soybeans, and other agricultural products largely for export. The problem is how do we, as outsiders, tell a country and its people that it cannot use its greatest resources to make money, to make a living? Preservation of the rainforest is important, but it comes at the expense of Brazilians who are trying to make an honest living. The illegal operations are difficult to police because of the size of the Amazon, and are not deterred by efforts to preserve the Amazon. Being in the middle of the Amazon, it is hard to believe that anyone would ever want to destroy such a beautiful place. But you have to take a step back and try to see it from the eyes of people that call this place home. Most are just trying to make a living, and maybe do not see the rainforest with as much reverence as us because it is something they have always known. There is no easy solution to balancing these interests. It should make for great discussions in future lectures.

Snakes, caymans, piranhas on the first day, I cannot wait to see what is in store for us tomorrow. Off to my hammock to sleep on the riverboat. This is going to be a great time!

Amazonian Bliss

Virginia Shumate
West Virginia University College of Law, 2L
Monday, July 28, 2008

As we arrived at the Holiday Inn in Miami, there was a surreal feeling in the air. Here we were, classmates and professors, coming together to embark on an amazing journey to Brazil! The comradery continued through the evening and into the next morning as we made our way to the airport. Excited and anxious, we boarded the plane for Manaus. Captivated by the extensive forests and winding rivers below us, we were able to get our first glimpse of Brazil. We arrived unscathed, except for some rather rough turbulence on the plane. I noticed that for the first time in my life, I was in an area of the world that does not cater to Americans. English was no longer the first language spoken on the plane, but rather the second. There were only a few English translations in the airport. I have been to Italy before but did not experience such a drastic change as I did now. I was surprised, but very happy about it. Driving through Manaus, the streets seemed dark and quiet, except for the cars going quickly and what appeared to be a little too close to one another and the few people scattered about. The steep staircases in our hotel and the heavy luggage could not diminish our wonder and anticipation of what was coming next.

Students and Professors participating in Brasil 2008 stop to view the flooded forest

Just around the corner and a few blocks from our hotel was the Churrascaria Bufalo, that serves all the meat you could want. We all sat together as the waiters came around with slabs of fillet Mignon, chicken, lamb, other cuts of beef, cheeses, pineapple, and almost anything else you can imagine. Everyone but me ate meat until they felt it clogging their arteries (Not really the ideal place for a somewhat reformed vegetarian, but the sushi and everything I had there was fabulous!). We still could not believe we were in Brazil but were enjoying all the sights, sounds, and tastes around us. Tired from a long day of traveling, I went to bed wondering what the next day could possibly bring.

The next morning we were treated to a breakfast of meats, cheeses, breads, fresh local fruits and fruit juices, and Brazilian coffee. From there, our tour guide Anandi Pooran led us on foot to our riverboat. We definitely stuck out walking through the streets as 21 American tourists with luggage. Before our riverboat departed, we walked through the open air market which was alive with the smells of freshly caught fish, fresh fruits, and people buying their food for the day/week. It was like nothing I had ever seen, with something new and interesting to look at around each corner.

As our riverboat set off on the Rio Negro, we marveled at where we were and how lucky we are to have this experience that so many people will never have or would even think of embarking upon. Later that day, we set out to view the Giant Lily Pads or Victoria Regia, named after Queen Victoria because the pads were large enough to be her hammock. We spotted two cayman there, crouched among the lily pads. There we heard tales of the cayman biting people in half and the rare occurrence of anaconda fatalities.

A cayman pauses amongst the giant lilly pads

From there we entered into the Flooded Forest in the area of January. The views were spectacular, the water rising far above the roots of the trees. The light shining through the twisted branches and water was breathtaking. We stopped our boats in an alcove of the forest and began fishing for piranha. We used bamboo sticks with fishing line and meat to entice the fish to bite. A competition ensued between the two boats, but in the end Professor cummings’ boat won with a grand total of 21 piranha (which the other boat claims is highly contested) and my own record-breaking 7 piranha!

Virginia Shumate displays one of several piranha that she caught using red meat as bait (most fish were returned to the river after capture)

On our way back to the riverboat, we stopped at a floating house where the little kids that lived there let us pose with sloths and their babies, caymans, both big and small, and an anaconda for a few reais. The entire experience was so surreal and wonderful. We also had the pleasure of viewing a pirarucu, Brazil’s largest fish, which can feed a family of 10 for a month!

Jaclyn Courtney holds a sloth while visiting a family that lives in the rainforest, Nicky Smith looks on while a typical rainforest downpour descends in the background

Later that evening, we joined together for our first seminar, focusing on environmentalism. As Professors cummings and Taylor pointed out, there could be no better place to discuss the effects of business and government on the rainforest than in the middle of the Amazon. The discussion arose regarding the tensions between corporate incentives and motives and the local farmers and those clearing illegally. Further tensions exist between the existence of this massive resource of the Amazonian rainforest and a country/government that cannot find a way to bring economy to the people and protect the forest from deforestation. Throughout the rest of the week we are going to focus on ideas that may provide some sort of middle-ground solution, improving the human condition and possibly making environmentalism a commodity that will provide people with money and protect this valuable resource simultaneously.

The many things we experienced in only the first couple of days have left me in awe of how beautiful a world we live in. I could not imagine a better way to broaden my travel experiences and way of thinking than in this amazing Amazonian bliss. I know that everyone here is looking forward to all of the spectacular things we will experience in the next 18 days.